We're at the eastern end of the Mountain Time Zone so the sun came up early. Breakfast on the motel patio and we're on the road just after 7 a.m.
The Black Hills are beautiful, albeit with a garnish of tacky spots thrown in. But you quickly get past that and just soak in the awesome geography.
First destination is Mount Rushmore.
Impressive yes, but better is yet to come.
Crazy Horse Memorial Mountain has become a pilgrimage site for me. The Black Hills were, by Presidential Decree, deeded to the Native Americans in perpetuity. And,as we know, that piece of paper wasn't worth anything. So, after Mount Rushmore was completed, Oglala Lakota Chief Henry Standing Bear commissioned the creation of a monument to recognize that the natives had some heroes too. Work had been ongoing for about 30 years before I saw it for the first time. On that visit the hole below his arm was there and we met the artist Korczak Ziolkowski in his home/studio/gallery. That had to make the trip between 1977 when the hole was completed and 1982 when Korczak died.
This is how it looked then:
If it wasn't for the horse's head painted on the mountain you wouldn't know what you were looking at.
This is how it looks today:
People wonder why it is taking so long. The four faces on Mount Rushmore would fit on the side of Crazy Horse's head. Millions of tons of rock have been blown off the top and sides of the mountain beyond what was done at Rushmore. This will be the largest stone sculpture in the world when completed.
They are currently removing rock from below the horse's head on the front side and this should be completed by the end of this year. Next year they start on the hand and the front of the horse's head, working their way back so they don't "paint" themselves into a corner........they need a flat spot on top to work from.
They front side will be completed first, in the next 30 or 40 years, and then they will carve the back, taking another 30 or 40 years. Ewen figures that he will bring his grandchildren to see the finished product.
This is my sixth visit to Crazy Horse and it's always an awesome sight.
After leaving Crazy Horse we drove the Needles Highway and the Iron Mountain Road......both are recommended for any Black Hills visit.
We visited Deadwood and got caught up in the middle of a gunfight, but my cameraman was so engrossed in the action that he forgot to take pictures. However, we can tell you that the good guy killed the two bad guys (deja vu three times a day, at 2, 4 and 6 p.m.)
Ewen did manage to score a couple of good animal shots during the day: there were three herds of bison along the road, each having taken over a nice field of mown grass.
Tomorrow we do more native spiritual sites.